LEVANTE LIFESTYLE

LAMB ROGAN JOSH

By Mary Beth and Nick Hazeldine

I have made many versions of what is commonly referred to as lamb “curry.” Of them all, this Rogan Josh is the new undisputed champion.

To me, the genius of Indian cuisine is the way it highlights the role aroma plays in whetting our appetites. While other cuisines, notably French and Japanese, have taught us that we eat with our eyes, Indian cuisine reminds us that we also eat with our noses.

In fact, compared to our nose, the tongue is deaf and mute as a taster. Something like 90 per cent of our ability to taste comes from our olfactory senses, which is why we can’t taste much when we have a cold.

This version of Rogan Josh is probably the most aromatic dish I have ever come across. It is representative of Kashmir’s central position on the ancient Spice Route that flowed between China, India, and the Middle East.

I do not exaggerate when I say that no dish is more emblematic of Kashmiri cuisine than this recipe for Rogan Josh. It features the favourite meat of the Kashmiris, lamb, and it is braised in the fashion typical of the region. In addition to other spices, the dish includes chilli powder, which contributes to its scarlet colour, gentle heat, and the name of the dish, as rogan literally means “red.”

INGREDIENTS:

ROGAN JOSH (SERVES 4)
Vegetable oil, for frying
800g/1¾ lb lamb or mutton, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 cup yoghurt
Salt
½ cup tomato puree
1 tablespoon ground almonds

For the Masala
4 or 5 whole cardamom pods
3 or 4 cloves
4 tablespoons ginger and garlic puree (see recipe below)
1 teaspoon chili power
2 tablespoons brown onion past (see recipe below)
½ tablespoon garam masala (see recipe below)

For the Garnish
Chopped fresh coriander
Root ginger, peeled and cut into very thin sticks (julienne)

Onions, Ginger and Garlic
These can either be chopped or pureed to a paste in a food processor. To make a ginger and garlic puree, combine, equal amounts of peeled ginger and garlic and puree. To make a brown onion paste, finely slice or dice some red onions, and sauté them in butter, ghee or oil until they are golden brown, then puree them in a food processor.

Garam Masala
3 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
Four 5cm/2 inch cinnamon sticks
10 green cardamom pods, slightly crushed
½ a nutmeg, grated
3 blades of mace
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 star anise
4 or 5 bay leaves

Dry roast the spices and bay leaves in a frying pan over a low heat, stirring until you can smell the spices. Remove from the pan and allow to cool slightly. Transfer the mixture to a coffee grinder or food processor and grind to a very fine powder. The masala can be kept in an airtight container or it can be frozen in a bag.

Rogan Josh Method

To make the masala, heat some oil, add the cardamom pods and cloves and fry until they crackle. Add the rest of the masala ingredients and stir-fry for a minute or two.

Stir in the lamb and the yoghurt, season with the salt and stir-fry for three or four minutes so that the meat is well covered with the masala and yoghurt. Add a little water and simmer gently until the lamb is almost tender.

Mix in the tomato puree and continue cooking until you have reduced the liquid by about one third. Stir in the ground almonds.

Finally, garnish with chopped coriander leaves and the ginger julienne.

Rogan Josh is better if allowed to sit either at room temperature for a couple of hours or refrigerated over a night or two. Reheat just before serving.